Tehran

Our first stop was a visit to the Sarafi or money changer, to convert our dollars and pounds into Iranian rials. Due to international sanctions imposed on Iran, everything needed to be paid for in cash-no credit cards. Three single hundred dollar bills gave me a large, colorful wad of bills and all of them featured the picture of Imam Khomeini. Milad explained the monetary system of rials and tomans. Even though the rial is the official unit of currency, prices are often quoted using the toman. One toman is equal to ten rials. Milad tried to make this concept easier for us to grasp by taking a rial note and covering the last zero. With an exchange rate of 32,000 rials to the dollar this took a bit to get used to.

Rials in hand, we had a delicious meal of kebabs and rice and then headed off to see Golestan Palace. We were greeted at the entrance by a large group of girls on a school field trip with their teacher. They smiled, waved and offered giggly hellos. It was the first of many encounters with groups of friendly students who wanted to welcome us to Iran and practice their English. 

Golestan Palace is set in a lovely garden and is a beautiful complex of buildings in the heart of the busy capital city. A unique combination of European and Persian influences, it is designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

Lavish furnishings and extravagant gifts to past rulers of Iran filled grand reception rooms that would not be out of place in the most opulent European palace. My favorite room was the Hall of Mirrors, where gorgeous mirror mosaic work combined with beautifully detailed glass windows. The small pieces of mirror were set in myriad patterns, completely covering the walls and ceiling. The overall effect was wonderfully extravagant and the dazzling play of light unlike anything I have ever seen before.

After our visit to Golestan Palace, Milad took us to a coffee shop for tea and sweets. It was a nice end to our first day in Tehran.